TOM O'DELL
MENSWEAR STYLIST & CREATIVE DIRECTOR
How did you first get into styling and specifically menswear?
I first got into menswear as a Saturday boy in a gent’s outfitter in my hometown of Bedford when I was about 14. It was a very traditional shop - we sold everything from socks and suspenders to dress shirts and handmade shoes. It was quite formal, very ‘Are you being served,’ and we all wore suits with carnations in our lapels on a Saturday, 3 breaks a day and my pay was £20 cash in a brown little envelope, later
went to £25!
By the time I was 16, I’d learnt how to alter suits, fit customers properly, understand different body types, fabrics, textures, cuts, and the history behind them. It was a bit of an education in classic menswear, and I just never really left. When I moved to London at 18, I worked in a shop that sold modern, cool menswear a mix of denim and streetwear so that broadened my view. I also met lots of great people in this time and had lots of fun, fashion parties, brand parties etc…
Then I worked for a menswear brand, did their shows, look books, creative direction and became a bit of a right-hand man for 6 years.
I knew menswear was going to be my career. I went on to open my own menswear and interiors stores - one in Shoreditch, one in Soho, and later one in North London, along with a few concessions. That really shaped my aesthetic and laid the foundations for where I am now.
Started it all on £4800 and worked pretty much every day 7 days a week for 4 years
My break was meeting an agent in my shop, who asked if I wanted to work on an advert and work with Martin Freeman. This led to 6 adverts, I then worked on adverts for brands like British Airways, VW, and Vodafone, and eventually moved into costume work, mostly period costume for film, styling for actors and art direction. It’s been a bit of a journey but always rooted in menswear.”
For the past 10 years I’ve been a men’s stylist, and art director.
How do you personally define great style?
“I think great style is completely a matter of opinion. For me, it’s when someone feels at ease in what they’re wearing. It doesn’t have to be the latest trend or the most classic thing…if someone feels comfortable and confident in their clothes, that confidence is the style.
It’s like with suits: you can wear a suit and look amazing …stylish, relaxed, timeless or you can wear a suit that doesn’t fit and just feels wrong. The difference is in how it’s worn, how it fits, and how the person feels in it.
So, I’d say great style is about being comfortable, feeling like yourself, and letting that attitude carry the look.”
Your favourite era for menswear?
“My favourite periods, especially when I’m working in costume, are probably the 1920s, 1940s, and 1970s. Each decade has such a broad span of clothing, so it really depends on the project.
For example, people often say they love 80s menswear because of Armani, and I do love that soft-shouldered 80s Armani look –but there’s also a lot from the 80s that’s… less inspiring, shall we say.
The 20s, 40s, and 70s are fascinating because they’re so rich with detail, uniformity, and a sense of hierarchy in clothing. There’s a lot of beauty in those periods, and so many great references to pull from. I also love the 60s for its energy and sharpness. Each decade gives me something different to work with, and that’s what keeps it exciting.
Your vintage collection is pretty special what draws you to certain pieces?
When I’m collecting or looking for pieces, I don’t always have something specific in mind. Sometimes I’m not even working on a project…something just jumps out at me. Over time I’ve trained my eye to spot individual items and immediately see how they might work with my existing collection or with other things I own. I’m always looking, everyday! There’s always something!!
It could be something as small as a tie, or as special as a beautifully made suit, jacket, or watch. It’s about building a kind of palette, adding pieces that feel right and complement each other.
If I am working to a brief, then I’ll go deep into the details …. endless referencing, looking for that perfect brooch, watch face, or tie detail that will make the look sing. That’s the part I really love.
And honestly, it doesn’t matter if it costs 50p or £500 if it’s right, it’s right.”
Is there a vintage piece you still regret not buying?“No, I don’t really regret anything. I’m sure there have been bits and bobs over the years that I regretted at the time, but nothing that really haunts me. There are a few watches I passed on when I didn’t have any money, they were £200 or £250 back then and are probably worth £2,000 or £3,000 now. But no, I don’t dwell on it. There’s always something else to discover, always new little treasures out there. For me, it’s not about looking back at what I missed…. it’s about looking forward to whatever the next find might be on my travels.”
How would you define British style?
“I think British style is eclectic — it’s a mix of cultures, subcultures, and ethnicities, with one eye on the past and one eye on the future.
London especially is a place where things are constantly happening and evolving. Music, sport, art, fashion — they all feed into each other and create this melting pot.
That’s what I love about it: you can’t pin it down to one look. You can walk through one neighbourhood and see ten or fifteen completely different styles.
Take somewhere like the Peckham car boot on a Sunday, you’d think there might be one dominant look, but you’ll see goths, people in leather, cheerleaders, sportswear, suits, head-to-toe pink… It’s just this amazing mash-up of styles, all coexisting, and that’s very British.”
Any style icons you always look to for reference?
“I wouldn’t say I really have style icons as such. Of course, there are brilliantly dressed actors and figures from the past, but I don’t tend to latch onto one person.
For me, it’s all about books and people about and about. I’ve got a huge collection of old books that I’m constantly referencing…whether it’s images of someone famous or just street photography of ordinary people.
I don’t even have a laptop, so books are my main way of researching and finding inspiration. There’s something about turning pages, seeing the clothes in context, that just sparks ideas in a way a screen doesn’t.”
Any do’s and don’ts when dressing for autumn?
“Not really! I’d just say wear whatever you want. If you feel good in it, that’s what matters …autumn or not.”
